So we arrive. Tanna Island in the Vanuatu group.
Nice place. Nice people. English spoken widely and everyone
greets you as you go by. The World Cup soccer matches are a huge deal here.
Both with the Europeans in the ARC and the locals. The kids make flags out of
whatever they can find and run around cheering for their favorites. And they
really know who’s who on all the teams. No idea how. There is no TV or Internet
here. Cell service yes, but the rest is like a throw back 100 years. The
village is very simple. Thatched huts. No electricity or running water in most
of the huts. A couple of cinderblock buildings for school. Very poor but very
content. I kind of envy the simplicity of their existence. They share in
everything. Paradise really.
One HECK of a volcano! |
So we did the island tour. We were curious as to why it
takes 3 ½ hours to get to the other side of the island where the airport is.
And we found out. It’s basically a one lane dirt, potholed, 4 wheel drive path.
And that’s the main drag. The only road in fact. 12 of us in a pickup truck for
the tour Bouncing along getting the crap beat out of us. Visited a village for
a rather contrived touristy dance show. Then on to the volcano. Having visited
a couple before my expectations were of a smoking hole in the ground and some noxious
fumes. Wow was I wrong. We hiked up the cinder pile and stood on the rim
looking down. No railings, no path, no signs that say you may or may not live
through this. The sounds coming out of the volcano were incredible. Like a
giant belching steam train. The concussions were felt in your chest. We were
there for a couple of minutes soaking it in when it started to erupt. Blowing
magma hundreds of feet into the air. Glowing, shape changing, globs of very
liquid rock. I’ve seen it on film before but this was up close and personal.
Every 5 minutes or so another eruption and another fire show. When I get some
fast wifi I will post a video or two. We were so close it filled the cameras
frame without zooming in. The heat felt like standing by a nice campfire on a
cold night. I could have watched all night. A spectacular fireworks show. Then
back in the truck for an hour long beating back to the village where we beach
our dinghies.
No zoom. Its that close. |
The following night was a gift exchange. The ARC has kind of
adopted this village. This is the 5th or 6th time they
have come through here. The village elders had provided a wish list of items.
Cookware, school supplies, etc.. Each boat brought a pile of items. The roof
and floor for the school were donated by ARC members. This year it’s a dorm
type housing structure so they can house additional teachers for the school.
They need 5 grand and are ½ way there. I think we will make sure they fill that
pot. The gift exchange was a formal affair. Co-Hosted by the Chief and the ARC
representative. We introduce ourselves and our crews and bring our gift pile
forward. Then the village comes in with theirs. A couple thousand pounds of
produce in hand woven baskets. And some other hand woven crafts. Not to mention
the 100+ hand made woven hats they gave to every ARC sailor. We now have two
huge hammocks of fruit and vegetables for our trip to Australia. Then a dinner
put on by the village. Local foods. Pig, goat, fish, dozens of vegetable and
fruit side dishes. I have no idea what all I ate. Had a great time and the kids
sure had fun. They are big on dancing here. Must have been 200 people all
jumping and dancing around. Local fellows playing their two chord songs. Really
cool sight. Just a bunch of people enjoying each other’s company. From two
completely different worlds. And literally from all over the world.
Kids are the same all over the world. Which is to say, awesome. This crew was a hoot. |
I brought reading glasses with me and have trucked them ½
way around the world. I had about ½ dozen in my backpack and sat down with a
couple of the older women to see if they might be able to make use of them. The
younger people all speak English but a lot of the older villagers do not. I was
kind of getting the message across when a local fellow sat down and offered to
translate. Got them set up with a couple of pair and they seemed rather
pleased. Then the translator, Nelson, asked if he could see a pair. He was
about my age I would guess. I didn’t think to ask if he could use a pair. He
tried out a pair and could read the fine print on a water bottle. He had a very
large grin on his face when he was able to do that. He immediately called over
a couple other villagers whom he knew to have the same issue and I ran out of
glasses pretty quick. Later on that night I got a message from shore via VHF
that Nelson had 6 more women who needed them.
Before we left Bob and I took in the remaining ones that I had. 14
pairs. And some sunglasses they also had been asking about. I paid 60 cents a
pair for the glasses at a surplus shop. And it made a difference in someone’s
life. Next time I will bring 100 pair. Or more. I know by morning word had spread
to the next village. I leave it to Nelson to see that they get distributed
fairly and I’m sure they will. They have a tremendous sense of sharing and
community there.
Tanna was a very memorable stop for us. The people and the
volcano were incredible. The closest interaction with local indigenous peoples
of the trip so far. And from here forward it gets more civilized so that might
have been the best and final.
Off to Port Villa, or the big city, where I doubt we will have this kind of interaction. We'll see.
M
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